What is the difference between using the stock subframe and the EG/DC subframe in my EK?
We recommend using the EG/DC subframe over the EK for a number of reasons. Using this subframe allows you to move your engine closer to the firewall giving you better axle choices and angle, moves the weight of the engine closer to the center of the car, and gives you more clearance between your radiator and intake manifold. For more info on the EG subframe conversion check out this LINK
YOU MUST USE THE EG/DC SUBFRAME IF YOU PLAN ON USING AN RBC INTAKE MANIFOLD. PERIOD.
What axles do I use with the EG/DC subframe?
When you select your axles from the below link make sure to choose EK with EG subframe HERE.
What lower control arms do I use?
You will use the LCA's from the EG/DC
What is different about these mounts compared to other kits I see online?
The main difference is quality. All of the steel brackets will be robotic welded, and laser cut. Next they are finished with a DuPont industrial powder coat unlike conventional black paint. The billet pieces are cut and machined through automated CNC machines, then polished to a high shine finish.
The real differences come in the form of comfort when driving and ease of install. Each mount features a no-tear tapered polyurethane bushings. This taper eliminates interference between the mount and chassis minimizing vibration through out the chassis. This style bushing is found on no other mount manufacturers products.
The mounts also offer two settings for engine placement. If you notice the mounting brackets have dual holes, which allow the engine to be placed further backwards or forwards depending on which axles are being used. Under normal conditions, with OE style axles, the engine will be placed in the closets position to the firewall. In the event of a race driveshaft, such as the Drive Shaft Shop level 5.9, the engine may be shifted forward to avoid any interference between the larger center bar and the shock fork.
True Torque Positioning Technology (TTPT). What does this mean? When the mount kit was designed it was designed to put both the passenger and driver side mount at the same height and directly across from each other allowing the motor to torque evenly, without this your motor can torque at different angels causing damage in other areas.
Why buy these over the competitor?
• Highest quality materials in the industry
• Hybrid Racing warranty and customer guarantee
• Hybrid Racing Tech support
• Discount on other Hybrid Racing Products
• True Torque Positioning
• Greater choice of header applications
• Larger bushings with a superior design for less vibration
• Custom color mounts available upon request.
These are in stock and ready to ship and you can rest assured that the Hybrid Racing quality and performance is ever present in each mount kit that ships. When you order the mounts from us we back them with a 100% Hybrid Racing warranty and guarantee them to be the best performance and cost in a mount product hands down.
So how do you choose what stiffness you need for your application?
The chemical engineering team at IM's have formulated three general types of polyurethane bushings available in our motor mount kits.
This article will explain why we have the different options and how to choose the right one for your application. First, let's gain an understanding about the design of the OEM factory mounts.
Factory mounts are usually made of thin gauge metal stamped and partially inserted with a rubber material. The rubber usually has two or more sections that meet in the center to hold the center pin. These sections do not hold the motor firmly and are prone to break under sever driving conditions and/or when used in performance applications.
This is a unique polyurethane bushing unlike no other. Our bushings are solid, will never wear or break, and come with a life time unconditional warranty. A key design decision in our bushings is that it makes minimal physical contact with the mounting bracket or chassis. The shape of the urethane bushing is tapered to prevent binding between the chassis and/or mounting bracket. This allows the urethane to gradually absorb engine movement and vibration.
All of our bushings are designed in the same general shape. What varies next is the hardness or durometer rating of the urethane.
60A Red - The 60A Red bushings are recommended for street cars. Most of our kits come standard with these bushings. They provide the least amout of vibration transfered from the engine to the chasis. This equates to a more comfortable everyday ride.
75A Black - The 75A Black bushings come standard on all Hybrid Racing K - Series mounts in Green. These engines weigh more and need a stronger bushing. We recommend 75A for street and track vehicles that make more than average horsepower. This rating of bushing is also for those that would like a stiffer feel and less engine flex.
85A Grey - The 85A Grey bushings is designed specifically for race cars or drivers that seek a solid engine mount kit.